Monday, November 06, 2006

CURRENTLY...
I am back in Madrid (living with Luz), and extremely busy between working and doing my Master's in Music Therapy as well as the Cambridge DELTA (advanced TEFL diploma)...
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ACTUALMENTE...
Estoy en Madrid de nuevo (viviendo con Luz), y bastante agobiado con el trabajo y los dos posgrados que estoy haciendo (un Máster en Musicoterapia y el Cambridge DELTA, título superior para la enseñanza de inglés)...
PD: Mis queridos hispanoparlantes, perdonadme por no haber traducido todo el blog al español (neanche all'italiano, ni au français, etc.)--¡pero eso ya es mucho curro! Así también practicáis el inglés un poco ;)

Sunday, November 05, 2006

MORE INDIA: VOLUNTEER WORK

Many people have asked me what exactly I was doing in India, besides wading through monsoon-flooded streets and watching goats get decapitated in ritual sacrifices (that's for another blog entry...) Did I have some program arranged to work at before going to Calcutta (Kolkata) or did I just show up there randomly and say "Hey, I'm here to help, what can I do?" The answer is, well, yeah.

It kinda goes like this....I've always wanted to do something like the Peace Corps, but wasn't quite ready for the two-year commitment that it entails. However, it turned out that one of my friends from university (and kindred traveling spirit!), Spencer, had already been living there for a few months, working as a volunteer with Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity at Nirmal Hriday/Kalighat (Home for the Dying and the Destitute) so I decided that this would be a great moment to at least do what little I could. So I asked him for some advice and pointers (although he didn't really have too much of a plan when he arrived either, just kind of showed up and offered to help), and the rest is history.

I don't want to get into a long diatribe on my work with the sisters or put forth a complete analysis and critique of the conditions I encountered and the work that is done there (perhaps in another future entry...) Rather I will say that, in general, the sisters and volunteers (and of course the late Mother Teresa) truly give a great gift of themselves every day, offering love and care to those who need it most. Although I do have my issues with the Catholic Church, I enjoyed working with these nuns and the other volunteers (a very international group, many Europeans, Japanese, Koreans, etc.--really got to practice a plethora of languages!), and was especially impressed by their respect for all religions. They did not actively try to convert the patients to Christianity, and, for example, if a patient died while at the center their body would be sent to the appropriate temple or mosque, church, etc., for funeral services.

So what exactly did I do there? Well--besides occasionally acting as an interpreter--my duties were basically that of an orderly....with no formal training. Just showed up and did what the sisters or other volunteers asked me to, basic tasks like giving out food (and, eventually, "promoted" to giving out meds), washing dishes, cleaning up soiled clothes (and patients), giving massages and doing some rudimentary physical therapy and just spending time sitting down and talking with the patients. At first, one is quite paranoid about contracting some horrible disease like leprosy or TB or malaria and you wear gloves and masks and are constantly washing your hands...but then you reach a point when you realize that the best thing you can offer most of these people is a little human contact and love, and you start to relax (after having to clean out the infected remains of the socket where an eye once dwelt, I got past my scruples pretty quickly--in fact, quite surprised myself by handling it much better than I ever would have thought possible...)

Although it may sound quite depressing, it was really rather peaceful and beautiful. But the more uplifting of my work is reflected in the image above: a card made by my students at M.E.N.T.A.I.D., a school for mentally handicapped children where I volunteered as a music teacher. I happened upon this wonderful and enriching experience purely by accident... One day, my first week in Calcutta, I randomly met this English guy and we started chatting. Turned out that he was a musician, and that another friend of his, also a musician, had lived in Calcutta a couple of years ago and had worked as a music teacher at this school. Well, to make a long story short, he gave me the contact information and POOF, suddenly through the friend of a guy I hardly know I end up offering my services as a music teacher for the duration of my stay in Calcutta!

It was a beautiful experience, the children were SOOOO appreciative and enthusiastic (great precursor to my current Music Therapy studies). I taught them some of the basics of Western Music, while at the same time doing quite a bit of improvisation and musical storytelling with them on a potpourri of instruments--and learning quite a bit about the extremely rich tradition of Indian Music at the same time! In fact, looking back on it now, I couldn't honestly say who benefited more from our time together, the children or myself...

In short, hope to go back to this wonderful country to do more when I can (although thinking of doing a volunteer program as an English and/or music teacher in China or México next summer, so we'll see...)
OFF THE BEATEN PATH: INDIA, GETTING LOST
ON PURPOSE...

For me, one of the most amazing things one can do when traveling is to really try and immerse yourself in the culture. While it's all nice and good to marvel at the Taj Mahal or once in a while enjoy the food at a luxurious restaurant (which costs about 1/5 of what it would in the U.S. or Europe), the real beauty of traveling lies in meeting the native people and getting to know their culture, language, and traditions.

While I can't truly claim to have "lived like the locals" during my six weeks in India (the $4/night room with no hot water and a less-than-impeccable-mattress in the hostel where I chose to stay while volunteering in Calcutta would likely be considered rather luxurious to the 80% of Indians who get by on $1/day...although I imagine it would have been looked upon with disdain by many middle to upper class/caste Indians and most Westerners...), I think I can at least say that I made my best effort to learn the language (in this case Bengali, and some Hindi/Urdu) and make friends with the local people instead of just hanging out with other Western (and East Asian) tourists and volunteers (which of course I also did, and met some wonderful people as well).

While visiting the gorgeous temples and palaces and volunteering (to which I hope to dedicate another entry to) were amazing experiences, some of the best times I had there were just sitting down in a local restaurant and chatting with the clientele...or enjoying a traditional Bengali meal as honored guests in the home of a newfound friend...or being invited to stay in a small village where the majority of people had never seen a Westerner before, and learning to play a game (called "carom," similar in concept to billiards) with local children or being invited to a cup of tea by people--who despite their extreme poverty--were unwilling to accept money from their "sahib" (important, respected person) guest.

The above photo is of some children playing football (soccer) on a muddy, makeshift field, complete with cows sitting stubbornly in partial obstruction of the goal. I distinctly remember this day, as I awoke to a flooded Calcutta (monsoon season), and had to take a rickshaw so that I could leave my hostel without getting soaked up to the waist in rather fetid, sewer-like water (later on I gave up on any remaining scruples though, and just "dove in" so to speak!) I decided to go and visit the Jain temple complex in the northern outskirts of Calcutta (Jainism is one of the many religions that the richly diverse cultural tapestry of India has to offer; they believe in complete nonviolence, and refuse to eat, or harm, even the smallest living creature). Well, after many transportation trials and tribulations to get there, I arrived to find the temple gardens converted into lakes, with a makeshift path of wooden benches to conduct the faithful to the temple proper. After removing my shoes and visiting the temple, I decided to explore a little. So, I just chose a direction and started walking.

Eventually I found myself in what could best be described as a "shanty town," more like a small village on the outskirts of the main city. As I penetrated deeper into the town, I noticed the increasing number of stares that I was drawing, a mixture of curiosity and suspicion. This was definitely not a place frequented by many tourists, and occasionally people asked me, "Where are you going? What are you looking for?" And I would respond, in broken Bengali, "No, I'm just walking..." Eventually I noticed that I was in a Muslim neighborhood, since there was a small mosque and all the signs were in Urdu (linguistically almost identical to Hindi, but coming from an Islamic background and written in the Perso-arabic script), so I used the Urdu (and universally Muslim) greeting, "Salaama lekum," when people addressed me. Well that seemed to win them over, and more and more people started coming over to speak to me, asking all sorts of questions, displaying a genuine curiosity in getting to know more about me and my culture.

After spending a while chatting in our fractured mélange of Bengali, Urdu and English, two boys offered to take me back to the main road in their cart (they were working, transporting lumber across the neighborhood). With a bit of hesitation at first, I accepted and we had a nice talk as we made our way back towards the city proper. When we arrived, I offered them a bit of money for their rickshaw-like services--but they adamantly refused.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

MY PAST ADVENTURES...

Well, ideally this blog was started as a way to share pictures and anecdotes from my travels with friends and family. However, seeing as how I'm a little late in jumping on the blogging bandwagon (and FAR too lazy to upload all my photos, album by album), I've had to do some consolidation here: below, a small compilation of my favorite pics from some of the amazing experiences that I've been privileged enough to have, spanning over 10 years, 18 countries and 40 U.S. states (note: India is not represented here, see previous entry).

Maybe someday I'll go back and put captions on each individual photo (HA, yeah right!), but for now the fun lies in guessing where they are from. Heck, you can even make a game out of it (winner gets a free round of cerveza; must come to Madrid to collect prize in person :) Rules: 1 point if you guess the country correctly, 2 for the town or city, or 3 for the specific monument, neighborhood or occasion. Plus an additional bonus point for the year, and 2 more for guessing what exactly I was doing there (theatre/music gig, teaching, vacation, international espionage, etc ;) For example, for the above pic:

SPAIN, Pamplona, Festival of San Fermín (3 pts); 2002 (1 bonus pt), Marcus jumping around like an idiot after having run with the bulls (2 bonus pts) = 6 PTS

Here is the link to the photos (when the page opens click on "Slideshow" to see them better). Enjoy!

http://picasaweb.google.com/marcusgiovanni/MARCUSTRAVELPIXMIX

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